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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.